Tuning The Tornado ------------------------------------------------------------------------ by Roland Gaebler 1996 and '97 World Champion, three times European Champion and ITA Vice President The Formula One of Catamarans One of the most thrilling classes at the Olympic Games, the Tornado has climbed to a level of technology and quality that other classes of this size are yet to come close. World and European Champion, Roland Gaebler, tells his tricks on how to sail the formula one of these two-hulled racing machines. Advanced manufacturing and construction technologies have produced a design that fulfils the harshest requirements in both fun and race sailing. Since its birth in 1967, the Tornado Class has developed to a true one-design class, which means that 95% of the worldwide crews are using identical equipment, fully developed and easy to handle. To keep the new boat purchase price stable, use of expensive materials is consciously restricted and in some cases forbidden. Over 2,000 crews form the Tornado Association and boats are being sailed in over 30 countries worldwide by mixed crews ranging in weight from 120kg to 170kg. The large number of sailing events does not only comprise of World, European and National Championships but also ISAF World Cups, Eurolymps and many national races. These national races occur practically every weekend. HULLS AND RIG: The three major boat yards that produce Tornado Catamarans are: Sail Centre of Sweden (SWE), Reg White Ltd (GBR) and Scheurer of Switzerland (SUI). The Sail Centre of Sweden (Marstrom) has the largest share of production (about 90%) of the Tornados mainly due to the fine craftsmanship and use of the best materials and advanced pre-preg auto-clave baking technologies. A race ready Marstrom Tornado sells for less that 30,000 DM incl. VAT due to a favourable exchange rate. Used boats vary between 10,000 DM and 20,000 DM. When deciding to buy a Tornado, a careful selection has to be made between two types of sheeting. On one side, the aft sheeted type consisting of two triple blocks attached to the rear beam. This system offers advantages in medium to strong winds. On the other side, the central sheeting system that leads the main sheet forward along the boom and down to a block in the middle of the trampoline. This type is easier to handle in light air but needs more time to get used to it. SAILS: A decision is easy when buying sails. Basically only one cut exists for both main and jib. A set of sails costs about 2,900DM including battens. Hyde of England or Ullman Italy and Ullman USA offer competitive complete sets which only differ in very minor details. These sailmakers have an even market share of about 30% each. Special sails are also made by both Randy Smyth USA (Silver Medal winner at 1984 and 1992 Olympic Games) and also by Chris Cairns AUS (1984 Bronze Medal winner at 1984 Olympic Games) depending on crew weight and preferred wind conditions. MAST: About 95% of the crews use Marstrom tapered masts. These require fine adjustment of both spreader rake and pre-bend before standing upright. Once set, they require very little adjustment over the wind range. Spreader Rake: The difference in spreader rake is related to both the brand of mainsail used and crew weight. For Hyde, Ullman and Smyth sails they all require between 25mm to 45mm of spreader rake depending on crew weight. The lighter the crew, the more spreader rake required. Pre-Bend: Similar settings and concept of spreader rake applies for pre-bend of the mast. The basic tension (between 25mm and 45mm) can be used but excessive bend while sailing can distort the main. The sign of too much pre-bend is usually if the mainsail starts to go very flat (and possibly invert) in the lower 1/3 of the sail. If this occurs, reduce the pre-bend by approximately 25mm. Another method of testing the tension is to sail in very strong wind with full tension on the mainsail Cunningham and the windward wire should not be seen to be loose. If the windward wire does start to go slack, tighten the bronze turn buckle on the front of the mast about 4 or 5 full turns. RIG TENSION: Forestay and shrouds are tensioned so much that the rig gets very tight when fully adjusted prior to leaving the beach. This helps reduce forestay sag and thus helps the boat point. It is also to help the mast stay as vertical as possible and avoid unnecessary spilling of the air off the top of the rig. The easiest way to tension the rig is by using the shroud terminals with the crew hanging from the trapeze wire at the rear quarter of the boat. Two people are better than one hanging from this wire when tightening the rig. After sailing, it is recommended to untension the rig again to protect the boat from being fully loaded (with tension). MAST RAKE: When the rig is tensioned, the mast rake is critical for the boats overall balance which gives the helm neutral feel. That is, not steering too much to windward and not at all to leeward if the tiller is not held. The mast rake is adjusted with the nut on the forestay thread at the bridle. It can be measured using the trapeze method. The trapeze sheerline for the ideal mast rake is within 10cm forward of the beam. In very windy conditions and rough seas, this measure may be moved back to the front or centre of the end of the rear beam. To measure the trapeze sheerline, take the trapeze wire forward (not attached to the stretch cord in the beam) and touch it against the inner deck radius at the point where the bridle joins the hull. Then, with the mast fore-aft, walk backwards along the side of the boat until the trapeze wire meets the outer gunwale. This should be at the recommended measure point 10cm forward of the rear beam. RUDDERS: The rudder assembly from Swedish maker Marstrom, fitted on most Tornados, needs no adjustment. Rake and parallel are already set by the factory. The kick-up system on the Marstrom rudders is also set at the factory and works well if you run aground. As the system settles over time, the kick-up adjustment may needs to be adjusted slightly by turning the + screw clockwise two or three turns under the arm to adjust the lock-down mechanism. On non-Marstrom boats, with the rudders set up on the boat in the fully down position, you must ensure the leading edge is parallel to the trailing edge or up to 5mm wider at the trailing edge depending on preference. This adjustment is made by moving the tiller cross-bar ends in or out depending on the alignment. Rudder rake is measured off the transom. By placing a straight edge down the transom, the leading edge rudder should be raked forward about 30mm. This measure may vary from boat to boat and should be adjusted until the helm becomes neutral or with slight weather helm (boat tends to point in to the wind) if the tiller is released. If too much weather helm is experienced, then the rudders need to be adjusted further under the boat (that is, greater than 30mm). If lee helm is experienced (boat wants to bear away when tiller released) then the rudders need to be raked back (less than 30mm). MAINSAIL BATTENS: Those who want to sailing for fun should not worry too much about the battens. Simply tie them in the pocket so no wrinkles are showing in the sail and enjoy. But for those who race will find that the correct battens can be of great advantage with boat speed. No matter who made the battens, they should have a certain stiffness, so the mainsail profile produces the correct forward forces. By using a 10kg spring scale, the batten stiffness related to the tension on the leech can be measured the easiest way. The lower 5 or 6 battens can be used in any weather. Their stiffness (when pushed or pulled against the scale) should be between 1 and 1.5 kilos and a camber of between 35-40%. The upper 3 or 4 battens should be adjusted according to the wind forces. The stronger the wind, the stiffer the batten. Between light wind and strong wind the very top batten may vary between 3kg and 6kg. The #2 batten may vary between 2kg and 5kg and #3 between 2kg and 4kg and all with a draft of between 45-50%. For optimum ratings on your battens - ask your sailmaker! ADJUSTMENT OF THE SAILS ON THE WATER: Mainsheet, Cunningham, foot tension and traveller. Upwind. In light wind the main needs very sensitive adjustment. Most of the crews sail with the sheet too tight which stalls airflow. The telltales in the upper third should fly astern for 50%, and monitoring the aft leech is of big help, to find the correct sheeting. The aft leech should not flap leeward. Using a mark on the main sheet helps to retrieve the right position quickly, especially under pressure, in hectic moments, at the start or when rounding marks. The mains Cunningham stays firm to keep the profile of the sail. The traveller remains centred and the foot is slightly opened about 2 - 5cm distance when measured from the mid of the boom. As soon as the crew can use the trapeze (due to wind strength), they should cleat the jib sheet and take over control of the main. In gusts and waves, good crews permanently work with the sheet to keep the boat flat and fast. Medium to strong wind - upwind: In case the lee hull commences submerging the boat will stop immediately, so the crew has to ease the sheet at once to prevent capsizing head over heels. When the boat accelerates again, the sheet has to be hauled in quickly again - the only way to gain optimum speed upwind on a Tornado. The cunningham can be kept loose as long as the helmsperson doesn't hike outside the gunwale. If the wind increases it has to be hauled tighter simultaneously to keep the hull flat and the boat powering forward otherwise the Tornado will yaw windward, loose its top speed and tends to stand high upwind. In excessive winds, this may require two hands to pull the cunningham very tight. If the hull seems to fall 'flat' in the water, ease the cunningham up to increase boat speed again. The traveller remains centred always upwind, but the foot tension should be hauled out to maximum in strong wind. With the wind abeam, the trim is similar to compensate the gusts and keep the boat stable. Downwind: After the traveller car is placed in its correct position, about 10cm inside the inner leeward gunwale, the foot tension of eased 15cm to 20cm distance from the mid of the boom and the Cunningham is fully released. The main should be opened as far as the telltales are flying 50%. The 5th batten from the bottom also acts as an indicator, which should touch the leeward shroud, while the 4th should be just free from it. The downwind constellation can be kept at all forces and only needs correction according to the wave height. In choppy seas and disturbed waves it is better to haul the sheet slightly closer. Jib Sheet, Cunningham and Barber Hauler: Jib control is not tricky, because the diamond spreaders on the rotating mast provide a good measure. In light breezes, the jib needs to be about 5 or 6cm distance from the spreaders. More wind requires hauling 2 - 3cm closer. In varying wind force, the crew has to concentrate very much on hauling and easing relative to the spreaders .In light winds, the Cunningham is loose enough to see small wrinkles up and down the luff. As the wind increases, it is hauled tighter so that a smooth profile is always being kept. The deepest point in the sail always has to be in the first half (about 35-40%). Full length stripes at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 distances help with this adjustment. Downwind: A better drive is obtained by using the barber hauler which fully pulls the jib outside. The jib telltales on the aft leech are flying 50%, similar to the main, requiring permanent attention. When the leech telltales are flying always, the sail is basically too opened. When the telltales never fly, the sail is too closed. The forward telltales also act as a guide for the helmsperson. Once the jib is more or less set, the steering can revolve around the forward telltales. If the closer (inside) telltales are not flying then the helm should be pulled away - and vice versa. If the steering course is correct, then the sheeting will need to be adjusted according to the forward tell tales. If the inside telltales are not flying then sheet in - if the outside telltales are not flying sheet out. Simple rule: Inside not flying = sheet in. Outside not flying = sheet out. Jib sheeting hauling points. The hauling points are adjustable along and abeam with a simple device. In light winds they are about 130 to 135cm backwards and 40cm to centreline, measured from the aft of front beam to jib wire start. In steps of 5cm, both these points are hauled outwards and backwards, in strong breezes 145cm to 150cm backwards and 15cm to 20cm outwards. MAST ROTATION: Upwind and abeam. The perfect airflow of the main is achieved only when the mast rotation allows a good angle of attack. in light winds the mast controller should direct to the leeward shroud. As soon as the crew enters the trapeze, the mast rotator has to be pulled slightly towards the centre. In moderate breezes to about 45 degrees of centreline. In strong winds you must be careful not to pull the mast too close to the centre of the boat so that the diamond spreaders on the spar do not pass behind the jibs aft leech. Downwind. After easing the foot leech, the mast is rotated outwards and cleated using the rotation limiter. The rotators lever direct forward of the front beam (90-100 degrees). Trim upwind; In light air the crew lies on the windward hull before the front beam and concentrates on watching the jib sail. The helm sits upright in front of the shrouds, just behind the crew. When the wind increases and the windward hull tends to rise, the whole crews weight has to be moved backward. When the crew starts hiking on the trapeze, the helm should sit behind the shroud and start using the foot straps. When the crew often has to come in and out due to minor gusts, the trapeze wire has to be adjusted in a higher position. As the winds increase and become more constant, the crew has to hag deeper, of course. When hanging stretched on the trapeze, the aft foot has to stand just behind the shroud beside the helmsperson. The helm firmly holds the shroud with their fore-hand, while the crew controls the sheet from 3 Beaufort on and cleats the jib sheet. By doing so, the helm can fully concentrate on steering without disturbances. Apart from that, the crew gets a firm, rigid hold when standing just beside the helm. Wind abeam. Trim along and abeam similar to upwind, but to prevent submerging in gusts the crew weight has to be moved aftward. In gales the crew might even stand behind the helm. The crew should hold on to the aft retaining line, fastened to the transom, to avoid dashing forward when submerging the lee hull. The lee hull must not dive too deep because the Tornado could somersault. The jib's sheet must be hand-controlled, for quick and easy release when submerging appears. The same applies to the crew and the mainsheet. Wind abeam and broad reach. In light air the crew weight has to be moved far ahead and to windward. With increasing winds it is again moved further backward. One should not stick to their position, but try to move along with the waves. FLYING THE LATEST DOWNWIND TECHNIQUE - THE WILD THING . In the past few years a new technique for trim along and abeam at forces above 3 Bft has succeeded more and more. Gybing downwind and flying the windward hull out of the water to reduce water resistance has become the latest craze in boat speed. The get windward hull out of the water, the crew sits just in front of the leeward beam and leans outboard in the foot straps, while holding the jib's sheet. The helm stays on the windward hull and steers about 5 to 10 degrees higher upwind than on the ordinary downwind course. The traveller car is fixed near the rear leeward hiking strap. The jib is not completely hauled out (with barber hauler) - about 20 - 30cm from maximum out. In this way the jib and main get a different angle to the apparent wind than on the direct downwind course. In winds around 3Bft to 5 Bft the leeward centreboard remains down, but the technique also works without centreboards. This new technique downwind is not recommended for beginners. It requires much training due to the many risks involved. For further technique hints on the Wild Thing see additional report by John Forbes in the addition Website tuning guide. STEERING TECHNIQUES: Highest upwind speed is obtained by having the windward hull just leaving (or kissing) the water, not affected by touching a few wavetops. Thanks to a perfectly working rudder-assembly, steering the Tornado is a true enjoyment. The Tornado practically "sails on tracks" when correctly trimmed and adjusted. THE TORNADO CLASS: PERFORMANCE AND FUN Due to its sheer size and high speed, the Tornado Catamaran is not a cat for beginners but more a boat for sailors who already have gained experience in other classes and wants a greater challenge from the speed experienced. Those who decide to sail a Tornado will be welcomed into a community in which performers and freetimers share a lot of fun together. Although it is about Olympic Medals in this Class, the atmosphere amongst the sailors is conveniently cool. Sailing a Tornado is simply more fun. ------------------------------------------------------------------------